8/25/2023 0 Comments Atc guide mode![]() No one could unlock it, not even when we stepped in the sling and jumped on it. But with that comes the chance that the carabiner could rotate and a thin rope would switch sides, removing the auto-locking capability (danger). If you keep the carabiner on the outside, it is easy to set up (See Figure 1). We also tried girth-hitching a skinny dyneema sling through it, redirected through a master point so we could pull down. Belaying from the top in guide mode looks strange and is nonintuitive. We set it up in my basement with at least 4 people trying to free it when weighted. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor. The instructions say to put the nose of a carabiner into the little front hole and ease it up. It is unreasonably hard to escape guide mode when the device is locked and weighted.It took me a while to find a carabiner that worked well for this and it still feels clunky and hard to set up quickly even though I've done it many many times. The solution is to clip the carabiner also through the thumb loop.But with that comes the chance that the carabiner could rotate and a thin rope would switch sides, removing the auto-locking capability (danger!!!). If you keep the carabiner on the outside, it is easy to set up (See Figure 1). Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel Machined windows through device for weight savings Guide mode works with one or two climbers ascending or. Belaying from the top in guide mode looks strange and is nonintuitive.The gri-gri has so little friction when unlocked that it's easy to depend on just one arm for pulling slack. I think this is also because the MJ demands my right hand pull the MJ away from my body to keep it from locking, but with an ATC I can feed rope with the right hand while pulling out slack with the left. There is more friction on the rope, so pulling out slack for leading takes more strength and more strain on my shoulder that with my ATC or gri-gri. ![]() There are times when it feels like it's slipping and times when it feels like I could let go and go have a sandwich (kidding!) The amount of lock seems to depend on the angle of the rope.I can lower pretty smoothly, but any little hiccup locks the device.Belaying from the top in guide mode, it works just as well as my Guide ATC.I rappel in non-locking mode, but had a climber go by me a few months ago who was rappelling in lock-mode and even then it seemed to work ok.You can do a normal rappel with it, unlike a gri-gri or other braking-assist devices.It is light yet locks quite well, at least as well as a gri-gri.Belaying from below, I like that the worst mistake you could make is threading it backwards, in which case it just becomes a normal ATC.Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. In choosing between these devices, consider how much weight/price budgets and your intended use for the device. Guide mode, while allowing me to go hands free, makes it much harder (compared to a redirected belay) to take in slack, makes lowering either extremely dangerous or requiring setup to not brutally murder the second, and it lengthens the process of swapping leads at the belay (I dont have to do anything when redirecting, the second just grabs gea. With an oval-ized anchor hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end for belay devices. This is quite different than when using a normal plate as the crab is taking that load and. 1361889 ATC-Guide Belay Device 42.95 42.95 CAD InStock /Outdoor Gear/Climbing/Belay Devices & Ascenders /Sales/Outdoor Gear /Clearance/Outdoor Gear/Climbing /Sales/Outdoor Gear/Climbing Black Diamond's most versatile belay, the ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, DMM Pivot, and Edelrid Giga and Mega Juls. When in guide mode the device is taking the full load of the climber. Shop all - Attractants, Urine & Feeders.Shop all - Scopes & Shooting Accessories.
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